Day 15: Cremyll to Wembury (Warren Pt)

Woke up to the sound of rain spattering my window - foreshadowing my wettest day yet.  But it's still mild, and the shorts are good for a while yet I reckon.  Caught the 9am ferry from Cremyll across the short expanse of the Tamar to Plymouth, landing in the old naval area of Stonehouse, where I quickly passed the Royal William Yard and the Royal Marine barracks, with sheets of rain enthusiastically lashing down courtesy of a strong south easterly.  My morning was spent following the coast path around the inlets of Plymouth, past the ferry terminal where stars on a wall commemorate famous passengers of the past, past the Hoe and on to the Barbican area where plaques commemorate historic departures of explorers and colonists leaving Plymouth for the 'New England States', the Roanoke colonies (now North Carolina), Newfoundland, Australia and New Zealand. And we'd like our territories back please, we're a little short of cash!

Leaving the Barbican, the Plymouth shoreline quickly turned industrial and fairly unappealing, not flattered either by dark grey skies and continuous rain.  After a lazy lunch, with 8 miles down but about 8 to go, it was time to speed up, and I left Plymouth behind to rejoin more traditional coast path out towards Wembury and Warren Point, the crossing point (in season, which I am not) for the Yealm river.  Another mile and a half back from the ferry landing to my B&B and it had been a 17 mile, and very wet day.

Having done this leg, I've decided to take another break, and head back to London for a bit before resuming from the ferry landing at Noss Mayo in due course.... I may even shave off my coast path beard although I suppose it is Movember...

Day 14: Downderry to Cremyll

My last day of walking along the Cornish south coast!  And a long one, in the rain and drizzle for most of it.  Set off at 8am to catch the light, first over the hill from Downderry to Portwrinkle, then with the rain starting to fall, around the firing range at Tregantle - with shots echoing around from the military range - and along the long sweep of Whitsand Bay towards the 600 year old ruined chapel perched on the top of Rame Head.

Carrying on from the headland, I turned the corner at Penlee Point, opening up views into Plymouth Sound and across through the murk to the Devon coast.  The twin villages of Cawsand and Kingsand were incredibly quiet compared to their summer versions, not a lot of life about although I think most of the villages are empty holiday homes, not ideal (what a hypocrite!).  From Kingsand, my route to Cremyll was through the Mount Edgcumbe estate, which was beautiful, full of autumn colour and an interesting contrast to the urban sprawl of Plymouth across the water.  I reached Cremyll and the ferry landing just before dusk, leaving the ferry for the start of Day 15... but with some 153 miles done along the Cornish south coast since departing Land's End!

Day 13: Polperro to Downderry

Back to the grey November weather today.  After a further brisk 10 miles in the company of my friend Jon, I reached my house on the coast at Downderry!  Setting off from Polperro, we swiftly climbed up out of the village and out towards Talland Bay, and on past Looe Island to the seaside town of Looe.  After stopping for a restorative cappucino, we then powered on past the Monkey Sanctuary, on to Seaton, and then walked along the beach path to finish at Downderry by lunchtime.  A gentle day, after three tougher ones, but some big walks ahead.

Now only tomorrow's long walk of 16 miles remains until the ferry point at Cremyll, where I will cross the Tamar to the Devon coast at Plymouth, to continue my walk into my home county of Devon.  The forecast is for drizzle ... now that's more like November in the west country!

Day 12: Polkerris to Polperro

Probably the finest day of coastal walking I have ever done. The weather was incredible, cloudless deep blue skies and incredible views along the coast in both directions - past the Dodman and down the Lizard to the South West behind me, and in the direction I am walking, well past Rame Head and along the Devon Coast towards Salcombe.

After a late start from Polkerris, I walked briskly to the Gribben Head, reaching the tower built in 1832, and spotted a couple of days back from across the bay.  My photos on this blog can't do justice to the light and scenery all around me, it was stunning.  I walked on towards the Fowey estuary, past Menabilly and on to St. Catharine's castle, another built by Henry VIII, past Readymoney cove and into this most beautiful of Cornish towns. 

After grabbing a pasty to refuel, I caught the little passenger ferry across the river to Polruan, walking up the steep hill and on to the next 6 or so miles of my walk, along the coast path to Polperro.  My guide book says this section of the coast path is the finest between Falmouth and Exmouth, and although I am yet to walk some of that, it was indeed simply superb.  Fabulous bays, long climbs high above the sea and then descents back down, with beautiful autumnal colours everywhere under the deepest blue sky.  Just breathtaking.   Late in the day, fairly tired after the hills behind me, I turned the corner round into the sweet little fishing village of Polperro, with high spirits.  This was a day to remember.