Day Seven: Helford to Falmouth

Gentle drizzle as I left my B&B in Manaccan this morning, and took a lovely footpath down through the woods to Helford, to catch the little ferry across the river to Helford Passage. Things soon brightened up though, as I wandered along the Helford river past Durgan and back to the coast where beautiful views emerged northward across the water to St. Mawes and Pendennis Castle, guarding the entrance to the Carrick Roads and the Fal, and southwards back down the Lizard.

Unfortunately though my right shin was really complaining and after another 10 miles today, gentle as it was, I've decided to rest it for a bit. I'll be resuming the walk, from Falmouth/St. Mawes in the weeks ahead...

Day Six: Coverack to Helford

Left Coverack after a hearty breakfast with the sun trying to break through, very nice after a couple of grey days. First stretch was a real mission as I wanted to get to Gillan Creek, 6 miles in to the day, more or less at low tide in order to cross the creek via its stepping stones and avoiding an extra couple of miles up river. So I upped the pace, passing several quarries (a couple of which sadly force the coast path inland across farm fields, albeit past several beautiful chocolate box thatched cottages in the village of Porthoustock).

Anyway, I made the crossing, then had a nice leisurely few miles along the wooded edge of the Helford river, lovely. My right shin is feeling it though, hoping a nice long rest in the New Inn at Manaccan then long sleep overnight will help get me to Falmouth tomorrow...

Day Five: Lizard to Coverack

Quiet walk today, not a lot of people about. Maybe they all have jobs? :)

Leaving the Lizard this morning, the coast path turned to the north east, into a little more shelter from the Atlantic wind. Today's march covered 10 miles or so, up the coast to Coverack via the pretty little fishing village of Cadgwith, where I stopped for a morning cuppa, and bought a painting from local artist Gilly Johns.

Some fairly demanding up and downs after Kennack Sands followed, with barely a soul in sight. Body is holding up, new twinges today (shins) rather than yesterday's ailments - surely a good sign? Spending tonight with friends and home cooking, very welcome!

Day Four: Porthleven to Lizard

Longest stretch so far, 15 miles by the time I found my B&B (the most southerly farmhouse B&B on the British mainland). Left the Harbour Inn this morning to light drizzle and a strong westerly breeze, which stayed pretty constant all day, so a first opportunity to earn a return on my latest investment in Gore-Tex! The other benefit of the weather was having the coast path more or less to myself, lovely! By mid-morning had reached Poldhu cove, famous as the site where Marconi transmitted the first radio signal across the Atlantic in 1901 - a morse code 'S'. We've made some progress...

Carried on to beautiful Mullion Cove, where some intrepid sea kayakers were about to head out of the sheltered harbour into a decent swell and strong wind - good effort! Then came across Shetland ponies (used to graze the nature reserve land along the cliffs) and a strange, deserted art installation high on one cliff top - the 'Wandering Egg' from Hamburg apparently?! Soldiered on, the odd twinge apparent from my left achilles (monitor!) and right calf (ditto) to beautiful Kynance Cove before completing the last couple of miles down to Lizard point, the old lifeboat station (disused since 1961) and lighthouse (still in use, flashing away nicely).

Good day - and found a mobile signal via wifi, roaring fire and pint of Tribute at the Top House Inn. Will sleep well tonight!

Day Three: Marazion to Porthleven

Not a good start to the day with the rugby (unless you are Welsh or French) but 11 miles of fabulous walking to recover. And now more recovery in the bar of the Harbour Inn at Porthleven, with iPhone in one hand and a pint of Trelawny in the other.

Left St. Michael's Mount behind under cloudy but bright skies, and after a couple of miles spotted a pair of seals! Quite a few more walkers as well, out for the weekend. Beautiful coves until I reached the golden stretch of Praa sands. Onwards, and unexpectedly came across three engine houses - for tin and copper mines, working in the 1800s. Wheal Prosper and Wheal Trewavas, abandoned now for about 150 years. Can't imagine how tough working conditions would have been! Eerily beautiful and peaceful today though. Eased into Porthleven after five hours, a good solid day and I'm starting to feel the rhythm of this walk now.

Official blurb on today's stretch here.

Tougher, but 'exceptionally beautiful' 14-15 miles tomorrow, down to Lizard! Still barely any rain... did I really need to carry all this wet weather gear? ;-) Oh yes.